Into The Beautiful North

A road trip to Smithers

By Prestige Adventures

November 13^th, 2017

a mountain town

As I pulled into the northern BC town of Smithers, a man was standing waist-high in the Bulkley River hoping to pull in one of the large steelheads this town is famous for. I wandered down by the stream and chatted to a gentleman who was teaching his son how to fly fish. "Tourists come from all over the world to fish in what we call Rainbow Alley," he told me. "We've got rainbows, spring salmon, coho, sockeye and pinks along with the steelheads that are highly-prized."

An American, originally from California, I wondered why he had moved north, away from the sun and beaches. "Look around some," he told me "and you wouldn't ask that question." I left him, coaching his son on the proper wrist technique to getting his line out into the water and headed for the Prestige Hudson Bay Lodge.

Fishing for Steelhead in the Bulkley River

year round adventures

The Town of Smithers is situated in northwestern British Columbia directly on the Trans Canada Yellowhead Highway (Route 16), approximately half way between the cities of Prince Rupert and Prince George.

Nearly 6,000 people call Smithers home. The area offers outstanding outdoor recreational pursuits year round.

Picking up a couple of brochures in my hotel lobby, they gave tips on where and when to go golfing, fishing, canoeing and kayaking. With the Hudson Bay Mountain as the town's backdrop, it's not only a great spot for downhill and cross-country skiing and snowmobiling in the winter, but hikers can hit the trails throughout the year.

For me, my adventure on this day was to be a little bit of hiking, flying and jet boating and I was eager to get started.

up on high

Local entrepreneur and guide, Peter McGuinness, left his birthplace of Ireland to settle in Canada, eventually landing in Smithers. While he makes the occasional trip back to the old country, it's Smithers where his heart now lies.

"There's nothing more beautiful than what we have right here in the Bulkley Valley," he told me. He cares about the land, so much so, that he's named his company after the valley he now calls home. Bulkley Adventures operates year round, offering helicopter excursions to the back side of Hudson Bay Mountain where you can take an overnight glamping excursion. While camp was about to be dismantled in a few days, I hopped into the front seat of a helicopter and was greeted warmly by pilot Sean and within minutes I was flying thousands of feet to the top of the mountain, eventually setting down on a small plateau where a canvas tent stood.

Ducking my head, I ran to the tent, pulling my coat tight (it was a chilly morning with frost blanketing the top of the mountain) and watched as Sean banked away and headed back down. It was literally only minutes away from town - but a whole new world away. Peaceful, with vistas stretching as far as the eye could see, I had a 360 degree view of the area surrounding Smithers where forests, mountains, lakes and streams dominated the scene. Whatever housing was close by, it was insignificant. We were in nature, looking out at the same view that the First Nations Witsuwit’en must have had when they settled in this land so long ago.

Peter McGuinness looks out over the landscape

Shane Menzel, helicopter pilot stands with Bulkley Adventures owner Peter McGuinness just below the glacier falls

on the water

Stepping off the helicopter my feet were a little unsteady. The combination of a pilot who liked to test the limits of the photographer combined with looking through a viewfinder at a couple of thousand feet with 'the bird' doing tilts, made it a little tough to keep my balance once on dry land.

"We're going from one thrill ride to another," our guide Peter McGuiness told me. In less than a half hour I was off the mountain and in the front seat of a jet boat flying down Bulkley River.

The river's depth was shallow (which makes having a jet boat almost essential) which made it easy for the fishermen we passed along the way to stand almost mid-stream casting for steelhead.

Looking up at the blue sky with the sun rays beating down on us, I was at peace - until I saw a small series of rapids up ahead. "That's where we're headed," jet boat captain, Ryan Bateson said. "Hang on to your hat."

I gripped the side of the windshield as the boat suddenly took off. The speed was incredible, like a Ferrari on water. Wind ripped my hat off, sending it to the back seat where Peter grabbed it out of the air.

The smile on the jet boat's driver, Ryan Bateson, was either because he loved what he was doing - or loved to see me almost go flying as I struggled to regain my balance. All in all, it was fun, dancing through the water, looking up at the bright sun beaming down on us, while birds, hoping to snatch their own catch of steelhead, drifted on the wind hundreds of feet above.

Ryan Bateson fires through the rapids on the Bulkley River

back to base

After a day of adrenalin adventures, I headed back to the Hudson Bay Lodge, stopping to take a quick shot of the clock on Main Street in downtown Smithers. It's a famous corner of town where tourists and locals alike stand with coffee mugs in hand, looking up at the mountain just minutes away.

Back at the hotel, I hit Don Cherry's for a quick pint, listening to a group of American hunters (I had seen quite a few US-based hunters since my arrival) who were trying to 'one-up' their buddies. As I sat there nursing my beer, I couldn't help but wonder if any of them took notice of all the Canadian legends of hockey who were pictured on the walls of the bar. Not that it mattered, they were having fun and would continue so late into the evening.

I left long before them, knowing that in about 10 hours I would be heading out to hike a popular trail - Twin Falls.

into the woods

I woke and pulled my curtain aside, looking up at the mountain, shrouded in mist. A light rain was falling and I was tempted to sneak back under the covers and close my eyes but I knew I wanted to stretch my legs one more time.

The SUV's windows were frosted over as I gripped my warm take out coffee mug, willing the heater to kick in.

It took about 15 minutes to reach Twin Falls Recreation Site from Smithers. You reach the park on an improved logging road through a beautiful second-growth forest.

Pulling into the parking lot, I switched off the motor and watched drops of rain cover the windshield within seconds. Undaunted, I got out, pulled my baseball cap a little tighter over my head, zipped up my rain jacket and headed for the trails.

I knew there were a couple of ways I could go - down, or up. I chose down first.

Stepping under the canopy of the forest, the rain was no longer a factor as I followed a small foot trail that led me to the river's edge. I set my tripod up in the shallow water and snapped a couple of shots looking upstream, while trying to protect my lens from the misty rain.

After a few minutes, I packed up and headed up the hill to a trail that came to a fork. The trail to the left would take me to the Glacier Gulch, a 2-3 hour one-way hike. The trail to the right would take me to the day trail, a short 15 minute trip ending at a viewing platform below the falls. Wiping raindrops from my eyes, it was a no brainer - I turned right.

I'd heard that the glacier trail was a spectacular viewpoint and I wasn't disappointed in my choice.

The end of the upper day trail leads to this viewpoint

The clouds broke, revealing a blue sky as I reached the top of the day trail. This would be my last adventure before heading down the road the next day. I'd be driving west, toward the coast, but for the moment, I just stood in awe of nature, listening to the water rushing by my feet and watching birds lift up further into the sky.

the final shot

I've always been a sucker for a helicopter ride, even though at times I tend to grip the seat a little tight when we do a steep bank. Even though I'm afraid of heights, my pull to grab a shot like the one below, is why I'll continue to slip into the co-pilot's seat, buckle in tightly and slide my window open, ready for the next shot.